This is a hugely dry, burnt style, very concentrated. The licorice and bitter coffee flavors are dense, layered and well balanced with the acidity. A serious wine that demands attention.

The 20-Year Old Tawny from Graham's has a lifted grilled walnut, mandarin and clove-scented bouquet that blossoms in the glass. The palate is very harmonious and smooth in texture, offering orange rind, marmalade and chestnut. I like the bitter edge that develops towards the finish and the stem ginger that lingers on the aftertaste. My only quibble is just a slight lack of persistence, but otherwise this is a satisfying Tawny Port, on this occasion rather outclassed by Dow's equivalent. Tasted at the Symington Tawny Port tasting at the Tower of London.