The 2010 Les Pagodes de Cos has a lifted and vibrant bouquet with red and black fruit, tobacco and humidor scents, just a hint of desiccated orange peel in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, quite Pauillac in style with pencil lead/graphite notes infusing the black fruit towards the finish that shows good body and persistence. Excellent. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners 10-Year On Bordeaux horizontal.

This big, rich, chocolaty wine is powerfully built with considerable extract. The wine is huge and solid, its tannins extreme and dense. At the same time, the juicy blackberry fruit drives the wine into an opulent aftertaste.

Bright loganberry and blackberry fruit pumps along, while hints of licorice root, singed apple wood and charcoal chime in on the finish. Pleasantly firm, open and accessible, this is engaging and lively but a bit shy on stuffing overall. Drink now through 2023.